Diocletian's Palace
Split's old town isn't next to a Roman monument — it grew inside one. Diocletian's Palace was built in the 4th century as the emperor's retirement residence, and over the centuries the city simply moved in: today there are homes, cafés and shops built directly into the Roman walls. The whole complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you wander through it rather than queue for it.
Give it time to be aimless. The Peristyle is the set-piece, but the joy is the side lanes — one wrong turn and you're standing under a 1,700-year-old arch with someone's washing strung above it. Don't miss the Vestibule, the domed entrance hall with its open circle of sky.
Cathedral of Saint Domnius
Right on the Peristyle stands the Cathedral of Saint Domnius — Sveti Duje to locals. It began as Diocletian's own mausoleum; the irony is that the emperor who persecuted Christians now has a cathedral built around his tomb chamber. It's one of the oldest cathedral buildings in the world still in use.
If you have a head for heights and the queue is reasonable, the Romanesque bell tower can be climbed for a view over the palace rooftops and the harbour — worthwhile, but not essential if the Marjan walk is already on your list.
Gregory of Nin
Just outside the Golden Gate, on the palace's north side, stands Ivan Meštrović's huge bronze statue of Gregory of Nin, the medieval bishop who fought for church services in Croatian rather than Latin.
The tradition: you rub his big toe for luck. You'll spot it before you spot the plaque — the toe gleams gold against the dark bronze from all the hands. It takes two minutes, it's free, and yes, we do it every time.
The Riva promenade
Split's harbour-front promenade runs the length of the palace's south wall — palms, café awnings and a steady parade of the whole city walking past. It's the obvious place for a coffee, and people-watching here is a legitimate activity, not a way to kill time.
Prices on the front row are city prices; if you want the same coffee for less, walk one or two lanes back. But once per visit, the front row is worth it.
Marjan Hill and the viewpoint
West of the old town rises Marjan, the pine-covered hill the locals treat as their park. Steps lead up from the Varoš quarter to a stone viewpoint terrace with the classic look back over the rooftops, the harbour and the mountains behind — the view on this page's hero photo is from up there.
It's a proper walk in summer heat, so save it for the afternoon only if you have the time and energy — and take water. If the day is already full, the Riva end of Marjan's paths still gives you a taste of the pines without the full climb.
